Family Journey
MilanNew HavenMilan
Malindi, Kenya and BrooklynParma, Italy
5 recipes
Latkes Topped With Stracchino (Creamy Italian Cheese)
About 201 h
Ingredients
- 1 large yellow onion
- 2 large russet potatoes, peeled
- ½ cup all-purpose flour
- 1 large egg
- 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Vegetable or sunflower oil or any other neutral oil for deep-frying
- 8 ounces stracchino cheese for serving
Cook
Tzimmes (Carrots With Raisins)
4 - 6 servings1 h
Ingredients
- 2 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced into ½ inch rounds
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon sugar or 2 tablespoons honey
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- ½ cup raisins
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Cook
Frittole Dolci (Italian Cinnamon and Raisin Doughnuts)
About 2 dozen doughnuts1 h active + 4 h inactive
Ingredients
- ½ cup raisins
- 1½ cups warm whole milk
- 1½ cups lukewarm water
- 1 tablespoon active dry yeast
- ¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 tablespoons grappa or Cognac
- 3½ cups all-purpose flour
- Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- Sunflower or other neutral oil for deep-frying
For the cinnamon sugar:
- ¾cup sugar
- ¼ cup cinnamon
Cook
Italian Apple Fritters
about 16 fritters30 min
Ingredients
- 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
- ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 ½ cups milk or water
- 4 Granny Smith apples peeled, cored and sliced crosswise into ½ inch pieces
- Peanut or sunflower oil for deep-frying
- 4 tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and sliced into ½-inch rings
For the cinnamon sugar:
- 2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
- 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
Cook
Goose Cassoeula
4 - 6 servings3 h
Ingredients
- 1 whole small goose or duck, deskinned, deboned and chopped into 2 inch cubes
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt, divided
- ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
- 4 tablespoons olive olive oil, divided
- 1 onion, peeled and chopped into ½ inch cubes
- 2 carrots, peeled and chopped into ½ inch cubes
- 2 celery stalks, chopped into ½ inch cubes
- 1 head green cabbage
- ½ cup red wine
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
Cook
Recipes
1
Latkes Topped With Stracchino (Creamy Italian Cheese)
About 201 h
Ingredients
- 1 large yellow onion
- 2 large russet potatoes, peeled
- ½ cup all-purpose flour
- 1 large egg
- 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Vegetable or sunflower oil or any other neutral oil for deep-frying
- 8 ounces stracchino cheese for serving
Cook
2
Tzimmes (Carrots With Raisins)
4 - 6 servings1 h
Ingredients
- 2 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced into ½ inch rounds
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon sugar or 2 tablespoons honey
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- ½ cup raisins
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Cook
3
Frittole Dolci (Italian Cinnamon and Raisin Doughnuts)
About 2 dozen doughnuts1 h active + 4 h inactive
Ingredients
- ½ cup raisins
- 1½ cups warm whole milk
- 1½ cups lukewarm water
- 1 tablespoon active dry yeast
- ¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 tablespoons grappa or Cognac
- 3½ cups all-purpose flour
- Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- Sunflower or other neutral oil for deep-frying
For the cinnamon sugar:
- ¾cup sugar
- ¼ cup cinnamon
Cook
4
Italian Apple Fritters
about 16 fritters30 min
Ingredients
- 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
- ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 ½ cups milk or water
- 4 Granny Smith apples peeled, cored and sliced crosswise into ½ inch pieces
- Peanut or sunflower oil for deep-frying
- 4 tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and sliced into ½-inch rings
For the cinnamon sugar:
- 2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
- 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
Cook
5
Goose Cassoeula
4 - 6 servings3 h
Ingredients
- 1 whole small goose or duck, deskinned, deboned and chopped into 2 inch cubes
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt, divided
- ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
- 4 tablespoons olive olive oil, divided
- 1 onion, peeled and chopped into ½ inch cubes
- 2 carrots, peeled and chopped into ½ inch cubes
- 2 celery stalks, chopped into ½ inch cubes
- 1 head green cabbage
- ½ cup red wine
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
Cook
Listen to the Story
“I grew up in Milan. And, we didn't have any Jewish upbringing,” explains Lorenza Pintar, who now lives in Brooklyn. “It was my great grandparents that ended that.” They lived in Italy under Mussolini, who in late 1938 enacted the first of the Leggi Razziali, or Italy’s racial laws. Marriage between Italian Jews and non-Jews was outlawed, Jews were banned from educational institutions, and persecution was legalized in numerous other ways.
In order to protect themselves, Lorenza’s family ceased publicly practicing Judaism, but kept customs and traditions going in secret. On Fridays, Lorenza’s great grandmother Emma would polish candlesticks and move them close together, but not light candles in them. After Shabbat, she would separate the candlesticks. Her husband, Angelo, would lock himself in a room and pray alone. Lorenza’s mother Magdalena remembers hearing sounds through the walls as her grandfather prayed, unable to discern what he was saying.
Through the generations, traditions of secrecy were adopted and adapted in the family. Lorenza recalls her grandmother, Aurelia, lighting candles on Friday evenings, but not saying a blessing. Jewish foods, however, were a constant. “For us, it was all about food,” Lorenza explains. Special recipes would quietly appear on the family table at particular times.
On Friday nights, Emma, who passed away right before Lorenza was born, would make fish in a spicy tomato sauce laced with paprika. She also made cholent, always with brown eggs sliced on top. And the family never cooked lunch on Saturdays, keeping the Jewish custom of not working on the Sabbath. Instead, they ate rotisserie chicken or bread and cheese, Lorenza explains. And, pork wasn't part of their cooking. In the family, cassoeula, a Milanese cousin of French cassoulet, was made with goose instead.
As a child, Lorenza wanted to go to church on Christmas. “To me, it was exciting,” she says. “My grandmother was like: ‘No, we don’t go.’” Instead, during winter, likely sometime near Hanukkah, latkes, tzimmes, Italian fritters called frittole, and fried apples appeared on her family table alongside stracchino, a local cheese that Lorenza describes as denser than sour cream, but with the same tang. It was served, “and then the dish would just disappear,” Lorenza explains.
When Lorenza’s sister passed away a decade ago, the family started to explore their roots more deeply at the suggestion of a therapist. As they researched, they found their family name in Sicilian records dating back to the Inquisition. They also have Ashkenazi roots from Poland. A colleague of Lorenza suggested the family create a cookbook of their Ashkenazi, Sephardi, and Italian recipes. Magdalena, who now also uses the name Yael, led the project with Lorenza translating the recipes for a small book called "Rebelot," a Milanese slang word for something that’s all mixed up or chaotic, but leads to revolution.
“This whole process was very healing for my mom,” she says. From it, Lorenza adds, “I understood how important it is to be rooted.”
Find more Hanukkah recipes in our holiday collection.
